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Natural history specimen preservation after flooding
This summarizes what you can do to preserve natural history specimens after flooding.
It is partly based on the 1985 flooding of the Tiroler Landesmuseum Ferdinandeum in
Innsbruck.
DO NOT DISCARD ANYTHING! It looks hopeless, but keep as much as
possible, take curatorial decisions later.
These are general recommendations only. You are on site, use your personal
discretion. If in doubt or if you have special problems, call the number above - day or
night.
Stuffed animals and birds. Freeze them. Do not remove mud or wring
specimens. Large specimens should be stored lying down if possible. Freeze in
commercial plants for food. The main danger is mold and rot. If you have to dry
material, it is imperative it is dried as fast as possible - store specimens widely spaced
with ample ventilation. Note! Drying may cause skin to crack and deteriorate
condition further.
Skin. As Stuffed animals above.
Alcohol specimens. Rarely suffer material damage, except if containers
fracture. Specimens from fractured containers are at best removed from broken
containers (KEEP THE LABELS) and transferred to plastic buckets with 70%
ethanol.
Skulls and skeletons. Can be frozen or dried, depending on convenience.
Note, they are often fragile and need to be packed with reasonable care. The best
packing material is crumbled, thin plastic foil (doesn't get wet), but cloth, burlap,
shredded wood, or paper (even if wet) provides some protection. Avoid newspaper,
prone to discolour specimens.
Minerals. Should be dried. Note that some soluble minerals (chiefly
sulfates, but also some chlorides, and occasional 'sulfur dioxide' in matrix) produce
aggressive acid when wet, that may damage labels and other minerals. Sulfides and
arsenides should definitely be dried as fast as possible, and stored at less than 40%
relative humidity. Avoid freezing minerals. If you must and can choose:
- Separate sulfates & chlorides, dry as fast as possible separately (if they still exist).
- Sulfides & arsenides, dry as fast as possible.
- Elements, fluorides, oxides, carbonates, and silicates can be stored wet for a long
time (there are important exceptions!).
Fossils. Generally not too susceptible to humidity and can be dried when
opportunity arises, but note! Any specimen containing Pyrite should be dried
as fast as possible, and stored at relative humidity less than 40%. Avoid freezing fossils.
Meteorites. Should be dried as soon as possible, and stored at relative
humidity less than 40%. Sulfide (Troilite) grains very prone to decomposition on
exposure to humidity. Avoid freezing meteorites.
Insects. Dry or freeze, but it really depends on what happened - call us.
You may find the main problem can be physical damage due to weight of water/mud,
rather than humidity per se.
Mollusk shells, corals, brachiopod shells, etc. Can be stored wet even
extended time without appreciable damage, and dried as opportunity arises (there are
exceptions!).
Labels! Ideally, keep labels with specimens
or at least in the same vessel. Loose labels should preferably rinsed swiftly in clean
water, and left to dry on a plastic sheet. The glue in paper often dissolves partly on
prolonged exposure to water; if labels dry in a lump, the glue may cement them
together, and they can no longer be separated.
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